A gypsy monkey, a turtle and twin frogs are having the time of their life, and not just because they are made of gold, rubies and diamonds.
Framed by elegant green walls, these bejeweled animals are among 80 jewelry pieces enjoying a great deal of attention at the Norton Museum of Art.
On view since January, David Webb: Society’s Jeweler is like an expensive Christmas present to all of Palm Beach County; one nobody minds that came late. It is all here: the elegant, the stylish and the barbaric. Visitors can marvel at the refreshing work of the North Carolina native who went on to adorn the wrists, earlobes and necks of Jacqueline Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor, Gloria Vanderbilt, Diana Vreeland and the Duchess of Windsor, among others.
A newspaper columnist in 1964 put it this way: “The list of women who own his diamond and enamel-encrusted animals reads like a who’s who.”
Housing the exhibit are galleries designed by Peter Pennoyer and Katie Ridder, the husband-and-wife team who also worked on Webb’s New York boutique on Madison Avenue.
A 1967 piece titled Dolphin greets one upon walking into the green salon-like room. This dynamic creature, which to me looks closer to a koi fish, seems to be riding a wave of translucent green enamel representing algae. A smooth coral branch serves as the base while cabochon rubies, cushion-shaped emeralds and diamonds add to the dramatic effect already established with the mammal’s pose. The fact that it looks to be smiling says a lot about Webb’s sense of humor and child-like imagination.
Later in the show is one of his earliest animal pieces: Twin Frog Bracelet, which comes in a variety of colored enamels and reflects the designer’s love of frogs. Similar versions have it being a single-frog bracelet and a watch, but on display is the green version featuring two amphibians kissing a diamond-encrusted ruby. At $69,000, it is still a top seller.
Even those generally unmoved by jewels are bound to admit that seeing work like this is a rare treat. Notice how in some cases, as with the gypsy monkey, the mid-century designer gave the animals themselves earrings and diamond accessories.
The show, on view through April 13, builds up to this moment when we come face to face with what Vogue first called “fantastic bestiary,” but it does not exclude earlier signature styles, including one that takes after flowers. You can see this floral influence on a series of fun colorful brooches to the left, right after entering the room.
Two of my favorite pieces were the Shell Evening Box (1972) made of diamonds, platinum and gold and an animal bracelet made of black opal, rubies, sapphires, diamonds, emerald, lapis lazuli and gold.
But the top prize definitely goes to the Jaguar Mask Necklace (circa 1973) which features a face coming out of a jaguar’s mouth. It consists of a carved turquoise artifact in a frame of cabochon amethyst, circular-cut diamonds and hammered gold frame, linked to strands of amethyst beads finished with a gold clasp.
The story goes that the necklace’s owner bought the Mayan-inspired centerpiece in Mexico and handed it to Webb to work his magic. Sketches on display reflect he designed at least two different frames for the turquoise carving.
Other pieces, such as Soldier Brooch, appear to be more personal. The piece is believed to represent Donald Claflin, who moved on to design for Tiffany & Co. after working for Webb in the early 1960s. The red and blue enamels on the uniform jump out at us. They are paired with diamonds, platinum and gold.
The second salon in the show is less dramatic but contains revealing drawings of Webb’s creative process as well as magazines spreads that speak to his rising popularity. An African-American model sports his Africa-inspired jewelry in a 1969 Harper’s Bazaar’s article celebrating black pride.
Also in this room, TV monitors play scenes from Hollywood films where his pieces often appeared.
The Norton’s retrospective of Webb’s creations, in a way, returns us to where it all started. It is known that the American designer drew a lot of his inspiration from museums (particularly the Metropolitan Museum of Art) although he also relied on gardens, reference books and his travels.
Having seen the exhibit, I don’t think the phrase “diamonds are a girl’s best friend” is going to cut it for me anymore. Not unless you add some tails, fins or horns to those diamonds.
David Webb: Society’s Jeweler, is on display at the Norton Museum of Art in West Palm Beach through April 13. Admission: $12 adults; $5 ages 13-21. Hours: 10 am-5 pm Tuesdays-Saturdays except Thursday 10 am-9 pm; 11 am-5 pm Sundays; closed Mondays. For more information, call 561-832-5196 or visit www.norton.org.